El Camino Real

There's a lovely off-width route at Metcalfe Rock called El Camino Real (5.9) that is very popular with climbers in the Collingwood area.  It also has a narrow crack variation on the right face for those who wish to trad lead the route and don't have lots of #5 or #6 cams and BigBros.

The aesthetics of the line are obvious and the rock quality and friction are pretty good for Escarpement limestone.

Since Metcalfe is essentially our "home crag", we've climbed El Camino Real many times on top rope "back in the day" and more recently on trad using the narrow crack variation.  Still, the off-width variation and thus the classic line has been a long-standing project.

For the past few years, I've thought about leading the route and this year I finally had sufficient "big gear" to lead El Camino Real and keep it safe (i.e., minimize the run out along the wide crack section).  If you're prepared to leap frog your gear, then a #4 and a #5 cam plus 1 or two #2 BigBros (or #6 cam) will do the job quite nicely.

A slightly bouldery start leads to a good stance just below the big cracks.

Now the "business end" of the route begins.  The right facing, right leaning off-width crack makes for some interesting laybacking before the next good rest with just enough features on the face to set the feet and place a large cam or BigBro.

Another, more vertical, off-width section leads to an overhanging roof, small rest cave and final crack climb up the face to the anchors.

Fun times for sure!

I think El Camino Real is a really cool route with great moves, interesting situations and good gear.  I think I placed 14 pieces of pro along the route, but I'm a bit of a wuss when it comes to trad routes.  I also like to tape up for crack climbs so I can lock off and place gear without getting pumped.

You and your second can climb the route "trad style" and either rap down or walk around to the base.  Its also possible to lower and clean your gear (with some gymnastics) if your second doesn't feel like it and then you're all set for top roping the route (if you or your buddies are into that).

There are some classic routes at Metcalfe Rock and El Camino Real is certainly one of them.  Because its located in the anvil area and faces towards the west, the route gets afternoon sun so it can be warm on cool days and a bloody sauna on hot days.  Pick your time wisely!

I really like El Camino Real.  Its one of my favourite routes (both variations).   I'm looking forward to our next session on the rock.