The 2013 outdoor season is finally upon us out here in Ontario and its time to set some goals and stuff. Beyond the fundamental rules of climbing, that is, (1) get strong and (2) don't suck, there's a few routes out there that await a clean send on lead.
On of the local routes that I've had my eye on for the past few years is Operation Evaporation at Buffalo Crag on the Niagara Escarpment near Milton, Ontario. Operation Evaporation is an burly (for me) overhanging route with flakes, short cracks, pockets and features with pretty good friction for Ontario limestone. Perhaps the slightly stiff grade helps keeps the climbing traffic and polish to a minimum.
The first crux is near the start of the route. The overhanging roof moves are strenuous and the pro is "difficult but good" (whatever that means?!?!?). Not a lot of gear, but just enough ... I think. I've got a good idea on most of the gear and where to place it, but I'll need to figure out how to place the crucial gear at the crux to keep it safe and still have enough gas to get up and over the roof. (Note to self: Good technique and foot placement will help). A big cam in the triangular crack spells relief.
The second crux is moving up and over the second roof. Not quite so strenuous but the climbing is technical and sustained. At least the moves are kinda cool. The final section up the open book and left to the arête has improving friction on black rock at a more friendly angle but has thin gear placements in small cracks and pockets. I'm gonna have to figure out the gear along this section. I'm not a big fan of runouts no matter what the grade. Maybe some small wires or a small tricam will work.
A few years ago, there were some bolts on the face that took the "sting" out of the route. They're all gone now so its all trad climbing from start to finish.
Definitely time to put the ego aside and work the moves and the gear on top rope. (God, I thought I would never do that!!!). I've still got some work to do on this Project ...
