Project ...

The 2013 outdoor season is finally upon us out here in Ontario and its time to set some goals and stuff. Beyond the fundamental rules of climbing, that is, (1) get strong and (2) don't suck, there's a few routes out there that await a clean send on lead.

On of the local routes that I've had my eye on for the past few years is Operation Evaporation at Buffalo Crag on the Niagara Escarpment near Milton, Ontario.  Operation Evaporation is an burly (for me) overhanging route with flakes, short cracks, pockets and features with pretty good friction for Ontario limestone. Perhaps the slightly stiff grade helps keeps the climbing traffic and polish to a minimum.

The first crux is near the start of the route. The overhanging roof moves are strenuous and the pro is "difficult but good" (whatever that means?!?!?).  Not a lot of gear, but just enough ... I think.  I've got a good idea on most of the gear and where to place it, but I'll need to figure out how to place the crucial gear at the crux to keep it safe and still have enough gas to get up and over the roof.  (Note to self: Good technique and foot placement will help).  A big cam in the triangular crack spells relief.

The second crux is moving up and over the second roof. Not quite so strenuous but the climbing is technical and sustained.  At least the moves are kinda cool.  The final section up the open book and left to the arête has improving friction on black rock at a more friendly angle but has thin gear placements in small cracks and pockets. I'm gonna have to figure out the gear along this section.  I'm not a big fan of runouts no matter what the grade.  Maybe some small wires or a small tricam will work.

A few years ago, there were some bolts on the face that took the "sting" out of the route. They're all gone now so its all trad climbing from start to finish.

Definitely time to put the ego aside and work the moves and the gear on top rope.  (God, I thought I would never do that!!!).  I've still got some work to do on this Project ...

Bigger Skies Ahead

Big Sky

Last March, I cruised down to Big Sky Montana for the 2013 USSA Masters National Championships with Mike.  The scenery along the Rockies south of Calgary was truly spectacular!

Blue bird conditions with lots of snowy mountains as we drove from Canada to the USA.

Big Sky is BIG - about 11,166 ft at the top and 7,500 ft at the village resort where we stayed.

Before the racing started, I had a couple of days to explore the mountain and check out the pow and try to acclimatize to the elevation!!!  (Living in the east does have some drawbacks when you venture into the mountains).

Before long, it was time to get down to business and enjoy the amazing snow, cool courses and excellent racing conditions at the US Nationals:

The temps were cold for March, but the sun was out and my start number was absolutely incredible (#3 in slalom, #1 in GS).  I was ready to rock!

Two nearly perfect days of ski racing!  The courses were long compared to what we get on the slopes in southern Ontario and I was definitely huffing big time in the finish, but WOW, this was "type 1 super fun"!!!

Here's a short vid of skiing and racing in Big Sky, Montana:

http://vimeo.com/63219257

Enjoy!

Revy or Not

Revelstoke BC is such a cool place to ski!  Awesome powder, steep lines, glades and fall line groomers equals one incredible ski experience in the interior of British Columbia.

I love the mountains and the incredible scenery out west.

We had a few powder days with some sunshine as well - somehow makes the hiking at 7,300 ft all worthwhile.

And don't believe what they say ... you DO have friends on a powder day!!! (As long as you keep up).

And at the end of the day, we got to enjoy some of this ...

... and this ...

... and this ...

Can't wait to go back to Revelstoke!

Here's a short video of the "Revy Experience" back in February 2013:

https://vimeo.com/61594196

Enjoy!

Winter Paradise

Finally!  It's getting close to ski season (in Ontario) and we eastern ski junkies are dreaming of snow, mountains, blue-bird conditions and lots of pow (when we can get it).

Today, I'm thinking of 7th Heaven at Whistler/Blackcomb ...

yah ...

smiles all round ...

Here's a small collection of pics and videos from "paradise" back in Winter 2012:

http://vimeo.com/55745502

Enjoy!

This and That

If I knew then ...

... what I know now ...

... I would have spent less time doing this ...

... and more time doing this ...

Winter's coming ... bring it on!!!!

Da Rules - Reboot

Two blonds, two rules??? (Nice shades mates!)

Awhile ago, I posted my thoughts on "The 2 Rules of Climbing" (or skiing or living, for that matter) and da rules were:

Rule #1. Get Strong

Rule #2. Don't Suck

I also added the "Zeroth Rule, which was:

Rule #0: Assess the situation and decide if it is safe (for you to continue).

To recap ...

Rule #1: Get Strong - Obviously, you are not going to all of a sudden become “stronger” just because you want to or need to or wish it to be so.  “Get strong” is you taking control over your body, pushing aside that feeling of getting pumped and about to fall, and finding that extra effort to “make the move on the rock” (while climbing) or to "hold that edge in a turn" (while skiing).  Just one more move and then maybe another and another as you finesse or power your way through the crux or slope.  (Maybe getting in shape ahead of time would be a good idea too!)

(One of these dudes is gettin' strong ... can you guess which one?)

Rule #2: Don’t Suck - Sometimes when we get out of our comfort zone or feel tired or lazy, we want the easy way out.  We feel that we’re “at our limit” and its time to quit.  You may think negative thoughts like “I can’t make the next moves through the crux so I’ll just sit on the gear, call ‘take’ or maybe have a little fall onto the last piece of pro” (climbing) or just skid your turn and come to a stop (skiing).  And you’ll never know if you could have made the move or turn because you gave up!  “Don’t suck” is you taking control over the situation, recognizing your negative thoughts and pushing them away while you commit to the move.

(Erin Mielzynski [Canada] getting 'er done on the Slalom World Cup in March 2012)

Really “Rule 1. Get Strong” and “Rule 2. Don’t Suck” is a mind/body state or experience that’s easy to say and not so easy to do.  "The 2 Rules of Climbing" seemed to apply to most situations, but maybe there was more than I originally thought?  What else was there to consider?

Well, it all became very clear to me this past summer when we tried "Alpine Climbing" out west in the Rockies.  "Get Strong" and "Don't Suck" will only get you so far in this venue.

What was abundantly needed, and what was repeated to me over and over again and again was:

Rule #3: Don't Fuck Up

This is a really useful rule when you're doing something "social" like "climbing together" and you're climbing (or skiing) along some sketchy snow / ice / rock / crevasse / avalanche slope terrain and there's about 1,000 feet of nothingness on both sides of your boots!

(Team "Fuzzy Peaches" heading towards the 11,155 ft peak on Lyell 4, Canadian Rockies)

How could I have missed Rule #3 all this time?  You know there are many situations out there when you need your "A Game" going and attention to detail is Sooooooooo important.  NOT falling or screwing up is an important skill to acquire.  Time to focus on the task at hand!!!

Many thanks to the ACC Toronto Section, Darcie and our sponsor Fuzzy Peaches for introducing me to Rule #3.  Summer 2012 was truly memorable.

(At the start of something?  ... We're not in Kansas anymore ...)

Little Wings

Sometimes the challenges of rock climbing can feel overwhelming.  You begin to struggle and waves of doubt and desperation start hammering your brain and sapping your strength.

Other times, you're in tune with the rock and just floating up the cliff.  It can even look like you've got wings!

Here's Tim climbing a tough finger crack at Smoke Bluffs in Squamish.

https://vimeo.com/51365516

Nice send!